I'd like to give you some tips for hooping satin jackets for machine embroidery. We do not need topping for satin jackets because it is a stable fabric, unlike sport shirts and t-shirts which are knits and stretchy.
Hooping satin jackets is one of the trickiest little jobs for the new embroiderer to master. The design placement on the jacket back must be just right - not too low or high - and it must be straight. For placement, one rule of thumb is to place the bottom of the lettering (if using an arc, measure for the letter at the top of the arc) seven inches down from the collar seam. Another is to place the design's center at approximately 9 or 10 inches down from the collar seam. (This is just a guideline. If you need to, get a sewout of the design or photocopy the actual size and lay it on the jacket to determine the best placement.) To get the design straight, lay the jacket flat and smooth, and using clothespins, attach a yardstick under each sleeve where the seams come together. Draw a line with tailor's chalk or soap for the horizontal placement. Make a halfway mark on this line to show the center. Be sure to double-check these measurements with your eye - jacket making is not an exact science and sometimes you have to adjust one way or another to make up for discrepancies in measurements.
To avoid the bubble that pops up if the lining and the satin aren't aligned, use a hooping board that the jacket can drape over naturally, so both layers are right where they're supposed to be. Check for straightness with a ruler against the hooping board's straight edge, using your soap line as a guide. Once the jacket is hooped, hold it up by the hoop and see if the two layers are even at the top, or if one seems to be pulled into the hoop. Check the bottom and note how the lining lays with the fabric of the jacket. I have used these methods for years and have had great success with all of my satin jacket embroidery orders. Good Luck!
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